Lima, the third largest city in South America

This morning we woke up and had a great free breakfast at the hostel to get our day started. We figured we could get some food and head outto find a city tour to join so we could get our bearings of the city and see some sights. We walked to Kennedy park and found the kiosk that sold us reserve seats on an open air bus. We missed the 9:30 one so opted for the 2:30 one.

We then headed down Larka street to reach the beach. Walking through the streets is always an adventure with all the stores, vendors, beautiful architecture juxtaposed against ugly worn. Out buildings alongside modern tries as well. After a good 15 minute walkwe started to see the end of the cliffs of miraflores which opened up to beautiful vistas of green cliffs falling down to the actual seashore. My initial impression reminded me of Santa Monica’s seaside highway with tall cliffs to one side. After taking in the initial views,we walked to a kiosk topics up some bikes to ride along the boardwalk.

The ride was great and gave us quick access to multiple parks with statues and people enjoying the serenity of looking over a beautiful landscape backdropped by an endless ocean. We came upon people paragliding as well and definitely want to do it when we come back through Lima on our way out.

We then found our way to lunch at la grab fruits, a recommendation from someone on our flight. Our hostel is absolutely the most conveniently located place to stay. We are literally in the middle of everything. After a great lunch of sandwiches and fresh fruit juice, we headed back to the park to get on our bus for the tour.

20130504-230118.jpgWinding through the streets of Lima while hearing the hustle bustle of the cars below honking nonstop, crossing lanes, bullying ways through red lights, it’s amazing we didn’t see any type of accident. The architecture made for some great photo ops and by the time we made it to the historic center of Lima, we were getting ansy to disembark and see some sights on foot. We ended up at the oldest monastery in Peru. It began construction in 1490 ish? Think Columbus discovery, and continued for over 200 years.. Think pilgrims landing. Tiles were original as was so many other architectural elements such as the puzzle piece ceilings were absolutely incredible. We then journeyed into the catacombs which were very interesting as well. We saw where bones after bones of 10,000 bodies were decomposed and the bones all remain.

After the monastary, we got back to the bus and headed for miraflores again this time passing by all the parks and boardwalk that we had enjoyed during the bike ride.

We then headed back to relax a bit before our culinary experience at astrid & gastón, a restaurant recommended by a friend of karthiks. On tonight’s menu was octopus, the ceviches, suckling pig, chicken, then the finale was a chocolate sensitive sphere. A chocolate, ball with raspberry compote that’s refrigerated and brought out with hot chocolate being drizzled on top to melt the sphere to expose the goodness inside. The most decadent of desserts ever, and a,a singly I shared.

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Off to Peru! Arrival in Lima

After a connection in Dallas, one in Atlanta, we finally arrived safely in Lima’s nice modern airport. During the end of the flight, Karthik and I met the flight attendants Gina, and Rosie along with a passenger Martín. Rosie was a sweet girl living in Atlanta and was from Lima so, and Martín currently lives in Lima. Martín was blond and looked very german to me so i was surprised to fin out he was Peruvian. We began asking for restaurant recommendations and got a full list of places that are near our hotel.

Karthik was towards the back of the plane, and I sat next to an 82 year old woman who didn’t speak any English. I was amazed to see that my comprehension of Spanish led me to understand that just 4 years ago she had a transplant of the cornea from someone who had been involved in an accident. She was the mother of 6, grandmother of 7 and great grandmother of 2. She lives in Montreal and likes French better than Spanish. I was feeling pretty confident in my comprehension so was excited to try to use it as much as possible.

Exiting the long lines at immigration after finding out bags– what an amazing sight!– we went and changed money and I was hoping to see a sign on the outside with my name on it for our driver.

Leaving customs we were greeted by crowds and crowds of people and it felt like being in a pageant. People had flowers and there was a sea of families lined up waiting for loved ones. Among the crowd, without seeing a face, I saw ‘Benjamin Trotter’ and I had a huge sigh of release.

Edu was 29, had just started learning English and was proud of his taxi service. He talked to us the entire 30 minute drive from Callo, where the airport is located. The streets were somewhat busy but abandoned at the same time.

Where we started to see more life was at miraflores where our hostel is located. The safest part of town, it’s also the liveliest. After getting a quick shower and settling into our quaint little hostel, we went to the common area to meet other travelers. It instantly brought me back to my younger years of adventure and wander.

We then headed out and the sights and smells of this bustling night life had me salivating for street food. I’d eaten so much all day that I wasn’t really hungry, but when I saw a vendor creating a chicken sandwich topped with shredded potatoes and cheese, I wanted it. But I filed it away to enjoy tomorrow during our day tour of Lima. We wandered the streets that were full of party goers but also a prominent view of police. It was very orderly and fun. After a little bit of exploration we headed back and got earplugs, as miraflores is apparently the center of everything fun in Lima.

Afternoon on Ipanema

Back in Rio, and I took a taxi to the city in hopes for catching some more rays and relaxing on the sand. Terrible luck, as it’s all cloudy, hardly anyone is on the beach, but it’s still nice and warm.. I met Gabriella and Andrade on the beach, and though a huge language barrier kept us wondering what each other was saying, there was enough communication to enjoy each other’s company. I’m now heading back to the airport in a bit to catch my LONG way home.. Rio de Janeiro, to Sao Paulo, to Houston, to Atlanta, to Chattanooga. Mom, Dad, when are you getting a condo in a major US city??

Leaving Argentina–with blades??

This morning, VERY early (4:30am) I headed to the airport. Once I arrived, I got checked in and had my money perfectly calculated to leave me just enough for the taxi, airport tax, and a ham sandwich with orange juice, with just about $1 left over.

As I went through security, they asked to see my bag. They asked if I had a swiss army knife, which, I know better than to pack one of those. We couldn’t find what was causing the xray to show this, and I kept emptying things out, and then we would go back to the xray to see this blade looking object in my bag yet again. They kept searching, and sure enough, there was a swiss army knife. I was shocked, as, I know I didn’t JUST pack it, and if it HAS been in there, that means that no one in Atlanta, Houston, Sao Paulo, or Rio de Janeiro ever found it. It is EXACTLY like the one that I have, so I don’t think anyone ‘plotted’ it on me, but I just don’t know how I would have had it in there. The last time I used the backpack was in Australia, and we brought it on board with us, so I know it wasn’t a leftover packing from there.. who knows, anyhow, it’s gone now.. and I’m off to Brazil for a long layover–on the beach!

The Evil Confiteria

Walking around the city, I´ve found myself indulging a bit too often to the wonderful confiterias around town (bakeries). The chocolate delights just sit there in the window watching me as I pass by. And, as I am techically on vacation, I don´t hesitate to try all the different little packages of joy especially when I can get a quarter of a kg for just $1.

The real question is this–how is it that Buenos Aires can have so many sweets and goodies on every block, yet I have not seen one obese person?

Wandering around the city on my last day– Free lunch Score!

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This morning, I headed out for a nice breakfast of eggs, ham, toast, orange juice, and my favorite, Submarino. After breakfast, I headed down to the Plaza de Mayo again to walk from the Casa Rosada up to the Congresso building, as the architecture is so grand. I then wandered in and out of shops, and headed back for Galleria Pacifico–I realized I had not actually looked at all the shops there! It turns out that if you buy $150, you get a free lunch, and I had my receipt of my leather jacket that I bought just several days before, and I got a coupon for a free lunch at a chic restaurant on the 3rd floor. I had a great lemon chicken breast on mashed sweet potatos with a puree of salsa and apple chips. It was great! and it was even better being free!

I then headed around town and looked for more photo ops, but the weather has not been the best, so I am hoping it clears up some. Anyhow, tomorrow is my flight home, and I must say, I have been so impressed by the friendliness, safety, beauty, and excitement that BsAs has to offer, and I know this is a place that I will visit again!

Day in Porto Madero and Palermo

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Leo has been gracious enough to spend time taking me around and showing me the city. His knowledge of the history and politics of Argentina really amaze me.. This morning, the sun was bright and we headed for Porto Madero, the port where all the immigrants arrived into Argentina. It used to be quite run down, but it is being rejuvinated with new residences and high rise office buildings. Leo´s university was there as well.

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We then headed back for the Plaza de Mayo. Today was a national holiday of the flag, and on our way, we stopped at the church that Belgrano, the creator of the flag, is at rest. We then walked around the Plaza de Mayo, and went to the A Line Subway, as it was the oldest, and has wooden made cars. Unfortunately, the train that came was one of the new ones, so I didn´t get to see any of the old trains. We rode down a few stations to the Congress building, which is strikingly similar to DC´s capitol building. We also went into the Catholic Dome located here, and then headed to meet Maxi for lunch in Palermo.

We had a great lunch and then walked around the fairs of Palermo SoHo a trendy neighborhood. I didn´t really find anything I wanted to buy, so as the sun was still up, I decided to walk around more to see if I could find any other photoops during the daylight.

San Telmo, Danielle, Melanie, and DIRTY concrete

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Today I headed for the fairs on San Telmo. The day didn´t start out well, as my taxi ride was 3x the amount it should have been. But then, after wandering around the cobblestone streets of San Telmo and arriving at a café, I had a nice sandwich for lunch. My stomach hadn´t been feeling too well from a meal the previous day, a shishkabob with not-so-cooked chicken. Anyhow, after I finished my meal, 2 girls came upstairs where I was sitting, so I offered them my place. They then asked me where I was from, and we started up a big conversation. Turns out Melanie is working as a missionary in La Plata, and her sister Danielle was just on holiday visiting, about to start her freshman year at the University of GA. They were nice girls, and I stayed for their lunch as well.

After their lunch, we headed out and wandered around looking at all the little trinkets and street performers, including a miniature horse. We then ended up in the Plaza de Mayo, where the Casa Rosada looks out over the square. Here is where Evita gave her famous speech, as well as Madonna, from the balcony.

I then took the girls to the bus stop where they were going to head over to La Boca for some Tango sights before they headed back to La Plata. As I was writing my contact information, I felt a liquid hit my hands and BRAND NEW Leather jacket. I thought it was from a pigeon at first, but then these two strangers came over and started rubbing it off of us. The girls had it all over their backpacks and pants, and my poor jacket I thought was going to be ruined. After some water and delicate rubbing, it seemed to come off, but just in case, I left the girls and headed back to Galleria Pacifico, where I bought my jacket to ask what I should do. It was such a foul smell, and the guy at the shop identified it as a cement of some sort — any how, they said the jacket would be fine after it air dries…

Alvaro´s Birthday Party

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So, tonight, Leo and I went to Alvaro´s birthday party, which ended up being one of the oddest events I´ve ever joined. It turns out that this Alvaro, while only turning 23, has already published 2 books about Philosophy and is well renowned by policticians and other aristocrats alike. When we arrived, I thought what an odd potpourri of people sitting around the living room. Ages from about 8 – 60´s, I couldn´t quite figure out what this party was about. As in Argentinian way, we are introduced and kiss on the cheek, which is quite a nice custom. I met a girl who had lived in LA for 10 years. She was just 18, but moved to the US at 5, and now has returned to a new life in Buenos Aires. She was a very nice girl, and it turns out that instead of going to University, she is producing her first Pop/Rock CD album, all with 10 tracks and a bonus track. She explained different aspects of her recording and mixing of the CD, which was all quite interesting. But then, as more people arrived, Leo let me into who was joining this party.

There was the Chief Designer of South America´s Chanel stores, all in her regalia of Chanel. There was Nelly Prince, a famous Tango singer in the 40´s or 50´s. She even sang a song for us. But the most interesting guest, came in with her sunglasses on and waltzed over to Leo and myself, and gave each one of us a kiss on the cheek–she was Patricia Bullrich, who was a Congresswoman and ex-Labor Minister who ran for President during the 2003 election after the huge Argentine Crisis.

I kept thinking to myself, this 23-year-old kid must be something if all these people are showing up to his birthday. Anyhow, during the party, there was a woman singer, and a man guitar player, who played all these patriotic songs that apparently ´define´ Argentine culture. This is according to an older woman who was perched down right beside me as we listened to the songs. She was quite into the music as she even took the microphone herself sometimes! Anyhow, it was definitely an interesting night!